fashion design council of india

The new Indian bride is the modern goddess that envisions her wedding as a special extension of her personality. She wants intimate occasions with unique décor, lush colours and candid memories to treasure for life. Every sliver of personalisation is visible, be it in the table settings, invitations, keepsakes, and her sartorial choices. She knows her loved ones are having a good time – they’re relaxing, dancing, and having fun – and so is she. And about time too!

”Bloom captures the metamorphosis of the Indian bride with a synthesis of different cultures, a reflection of today’s generation. Bloom represents the delicate confluence of artistic traditions and the pragmatism of the times we live in. And of course, flowers,” says designer, Tarun Tahiliani.

More than 80 pieces spanning bridal couture, occasion and festive wear heralded the coming together of technique, craftsmanship and innovation: Lightweight lehengas, shararas, peplum blouses, concept saris, structured drapes, anarkalis and fusion-style jumpsuits exude pure celebration. Contemporary occasion wear for those intimate pre-weddings plays with chikankaari, mukaish embroidery and kanjeevaram, in light, new avatars for the stylish bride. When it comes to couture, contoured construction, patterns and unique fabrics merge to make the garment feel like a second skin, sensually moulded to shape every curve, and yet, allow the freedom and comfort to dance the night away.

In what was probably a first-ever at any India Couture Week show, Tarun Tahiliani broke from tradition and closed the show with an anonymous ‘non-show-stopper-show-stopper’ who donned a simple but stunning ‘work in progress’ white tulle gown paired with a dainty netmask. The mask covers the face of the person with the intent to emphasise the outfit and have it make a statement about its own identity and that of the craft and workmanship that has gone into its making. The idea behind this was to shine a bright spotlight on the garments, that were truly the show-stoppers for the evening.

As seen in the collection, the new bride steals the show in soft pastels of peach, dusty rose, blush pink, coral, teal, vintage gold and aqua. For her pre-wedding functions and cocktails, she chooses from a rich palette of electric blue, deep violet and plum. For the mehendi and poojas, deep, earthy Indian hues are what she selects. Diverse embroidery styles – from Kashmir-inspired Kashida, a fine zari work used around prints, Jammevar and Resham thread embroidery makes sure the bride is not weighed down by her outfit. Floral motifs combine with French knots, tulle, jaali burned in the fabric, lace, and ombré beading to bring a glamorous exquisiteness and drama to each piece. Fluffs of whimsical resham-crystal-baadla, sparkling Swarovski crystals adorn customized crinolines for each lehenga.

Juxtaposing iconic European construction with classic Indian styles and embroideries, the new collection exemplifies an ‘India Modern’ aesthetic. In the structured lightness of every drape is the embodiment of a new voice of tradition. One that proudly carries a rich heritage into a modern way of life.

“We’ve worked with Swarovski since the ’90s. This successful long-term association over the years has witnessed some of the most iconic, luxurious and memorable creations made with crystals from Swarovski. We Indians love the winking light, the luminescence and sparkle of a diamond, especially for weddings. And so, it is an honour once again to collaborate with Swarovski to create magical garments using traditional Indian techniques.” says Tahiliani on his association with Swarovski.

Fine polki and jadau jewellery pieces designed by Paramani Jewels have added that extra panache and glamour to the collection.

Intricate gold pieces set with uncut diamonds from Paramani Jewels lend a sense of traditional luxury and aplomb to the show. Jadau being the brand’s signature that has been used to accessorise with every look with a mix of antique pearls, meenakari work and coloured stones. Meanwhile, the cut-diamond jewellery that adorned the models in the show came from Gems Paradise. The jewels struck the right balance of making the look seem fit for a grand occasion, yet understated.

This season, the menswear collection from Tarun Tahiliani focuses on fitted tone-on-tone sherwanis, Mughal-inspired kurtas with multiple fabric layers in different heights, pre-constructed kamarbandhs and period-inspired stoles. The philosophy of the Tarun Tahiliani man is understated elegance, with special emphasis on fine fabrics and impeccable tailoring to look the part on his D-day.