One of India’s most notable fashion designers, Payal Jain who is highly acclaimed for her classic and timeless contemporary design, unveils her latest collection ‘Crescent Moon’ at FDCI Lotus-Make up India Fashion Week, SS’20.
FDCI Board of Governors L-R Rahul Mishra, Varun Bahl, Safir Anand, Reynu Taandon, Anjana Bhargav, Sunil Sethi, Payal Jain, Manoviraj Khosla, Paras Bairoliya, Nitin Bal Chauhan
“Crescent moon” is inspired by Neo-classical Costumes from the early 19th Century with a reverence for antiquity; simple lines and linear silhouettes. Traditionally, these costumes were made in Indian fabrics with hand-embroidered leaves and tendrils winding down bodices, giving them a sense of casual informality.
It is an evocation of Elizabethan costumes; free-flowing gowns, dresses, skirts, blouses and fluid coat shirts, interpreted in fine Indian muslin and linen. Long white dresses are embellished with high decorative collars, puffed voluminous sleeves, oversized bows and wristbands, lace detailing, ruffled necklines and ribbon trimmings.
This is an experiment in fine linen gauze, translucent Chanderi, gossamer silk organza, chiffon and georgette. Embroideries hail back to our ancient Indian heritage of Chikankari, Zardozi, Resham-Dori, Shisho-Bharat, Mokaish, Tilla-Marodi, Daraz and Stitch-tie techniques. Weaves have been explored and intertwined; textiles created from starch, detailing painstakingly intricate, and multiple textures juxtaposed in each silhouette.
Talking about the collection, Payal Jain shares, “I have always wanted to pay homage to my dearest father who had supported and inspired me throughout my journey. Even though he is no more with us but his blessing and teachings have always stayed with me. He revered Rabindranath Tagore and his collection of poems; ‘Crescent Moon’ was closest to her heart and hence, this collection is a humble tribute to him and his life”.
This collection has been a journey of designer’s self-discovery, from pain to grief, abandonment and a deep sense of loss, learning to take small steps out of the darkness and pulling herself together bit by bit for the sake of those she loves.
In a quest to find answers to her zillion questions, she finds herself evolving. Thus, she shares the saga of her life In “Crescent Moon”, a solitary, reflective and retrospective walk with textile, texture and form, reminiscent of a bygone era, in a time and place that exists only in the depths of her imagination.
The plus-size market has been an underserved opportunity for long in the industry. It is also true that many parts of the fashion industry have exhibited both overt and unconscious bias against images of women that did not conform to their unrealistic–and often unhealthy–“ideals” of feminine beauty.
Also from the last two decades, there have been groundbreaking milestones within the transgender community. Clothing for the trans community in India is no doubt one of the most visual and instinctive expressions of their acceptance and their transition to womanhood.
However, there has always been some kind of discrimination on things like size, height and skin colour and also the third gender community.
Breaking all these misconceptions designer Payal Jain showcases a collection which is for all! She believes in the concept that fashion is for everyone and all these things do not describe fashion for one.
They say, “Beauty lies in the eyes of the beholder”. In “Crescent Moon”, when you look closely in the darkness, you will see Magic!!
