Maku, Padmaja And Soham Dave Unveiled Organic Fashion at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019

STRONG ENVIRONMENTAL MESSAGE

Maku Textiles have always paid homage to nature, craft and tradition. At Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 it was the collection “Be There” that made a strong case to preserve the nearly extinct wild creatures on land and in the sea. Each garment was named after critically endangered species like Po’ouli, Pangolin, Dhole, Dugong, Baiji and Shika.

The garments had the relaxed easy silhouettes that Maku is renowned for. Presenting a collection of saris, interspersed with dresses, the show started with a neutral brown striped sari, moved on to more versions of the same, teamed with boxy blouses and then moved to the dresses.

Keeping the size fluid and free there were long-sleeved mini tunics with provocative gathers under the bust and mini shoulder plackets. The asymmetric placket for the boxy midi had cool side slits and a gathered back that was layered with a faux shield. A cross over a striped kurta, the crushed skirt with long-sleeved bodice and the horizontal striped shift had discreet styling.

The keyhole cut out at the neck for the long-sleeved wrap dress had tie-ups at the sides and neck along with an angular drop waist bodice. The shirtdress turned stylish as midi with elbow-length raglan sleeves, welt pockets, drawstring waist at back and a prim one-piece collar with pleats under the placket. Long-sleeves were constant for the free size midi with hemstitch, tiny side slits and tucked front and back for a stylish touch.

Men’s wear was restricted to two entries comprising a striped shirt unstructured jacket and another shirt with giant patches and slim trousers.

The fabrics were restricted to jamdani and Khadi in dark hues of stark black with hints of pencil stripes or tiny motifs. When it’s the environment and the endangered species that matters, buyers should help by supporting Maku Textiles collection “Be There” and make their contribution to the cause.

A FASHIONABLE FRAGRANCE

Padmaja’s collections have always had a fashionable organic feel that has appealed to lovers of eco-friendly attire. Her collection “Ayahuma” at Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 celebrated the beauty of festivals, rituals and dances with its delicate and relaxed silhouettes. Inspired solely by nature, Padmaja’s creativity drew visions from the patterns of leaves, the gentle folds of petals and then brought together nature’s asymmetry in total unison for the ensembles on the ramp. Padmaja’s colours were drawn from natural tones of flowers, fruits, minerals and elements that showered the textiles in subtle shades.

Padmaja got her colours from the coconut, rose, marigold and other natural dyes sourced from recycled flowers and fruits. The designer’s fabric choice too remained pure as her design team worked with the best weavers and dyers from India.

Opening the show with a live rendition of a foot-tapping Bengali song, the mood was set for a visual presentation of crafts, textiles and colours. Silhouettes were easy with a firm grip on total comfort. The abstract smudgy prints were a constant for the fluid shifts, some with detailed yokes, breezy kaftan dresses and blouses with dropped shoulders, gathers or pin-tucked cap sleeves.

The creations in varying silhouettes offered low crotch pants with a fluid blouse, loose kurtas, baggy dress with hem detailing strappy maxi, dusty beige dress with micro pleated sleeves and a lehenga with an asymmetric blouse in a two tone-print offered interesting East/West options.

The one- sleeve kaftan and the white fluid printed dress had a fresh feel. Detailing appeared in the form of intricate tucks and pleats, which were hand done. Keeping the brands’ belief of zero wastage recycling and upcycling with hand spun and woven textiles, the collection was a grand offering of modern design sensibilities that are the brand’s raison d’etre.

Saris appeared in a variety of prints in soft hues of peach, beige, lilac, blue, grey, yellow and black. Closing the show was Bollywood star Malavika Mohanan who sailed down the ramp in a printed sari with an extremely detailed blouse. The “Ayahuma” collection by Padmaja was aimed at the woman whose sensibilities are rooted in nature and loves to walk the sustainable fashion path.

THE GLITTER OF GOLD AND SILVER ON THE CATWALK

Soham Dave has always walked the sustainable road ever since he started his label in 2011. For Lakmé Fashion Week Winter/Festive 2019 Soham brought the glitter of gold and silver on his collection called “Zari”. Ensuring that his design sensibilities are intact, Soham used especially hand-woven fabrics that were created with the available resources for silk and cotton or silk with zari. Always promoting artisan clusters for his collections, Soham had the expert weavers from the Fulia cluster in West Bengal to dream up the finest fabrics.

The garments had Soham’s design directions, as relaxed pants, comfy blouses, feminine tunics and jackets appeared on the elegant models as they glided down the ramp. Opening the presentation with a great black and gold checked sari, the show moved to a brown pantsuit and trapeze style blouse, layered kurtas with wide pants and a great horizontal striped maxi with side pleats. The boxy blouse with a full-flared skirt, black shift over flouncy skirt and the asymmetric shirt with cropped cigarette pants presented great separates for a mix and match story.

The striking large checks in black and white silk or the grey/gold-striped version for the slinky tube dress brought classic fashion to the forefront. The creative use of the checks and stripes for the boxy jackets or shifts ensured that the silhouettes were left basic to allow the fabrics to do all the talking. The final lehenga choli and dupatta in grey/gold revealed a superior textiles tale. When women want the radiant sheen of glitter, then the “Zari” collection by Soham Dave will add to their fashion story during the coming season.