BURSA : The Ottoman Saga

In the highly acclaimed spirit of the Royal Nomad that the illustrious couturier JJ Valaya is fondly known for, begins his journey from ‘Tabriz’, his last collection based on the mystical culture and arts of Persia into the alleys of BURSA and 14-17th century of the Ottoman Empire in Turkey.

This Ottoman inspired winter collection is named after ‘Bursa’, a city that holds a special place in Ottoman history as their founding capital, and also as the birthplace of Ottoman architecture.

The Master Couturier aims and intends to showcase his resplendent and glorious collection at the ongoing India Couture Week 2020, presented by the FDCI in association with the Hindustan Times, which is a first in the Indian fashion scenario by virtue of it being a virtual presentation.

In our legacy of many endearing firsts over nearly 3 decades, we once again look forward to being a part of yet another first in India, the FDCI Virtual India Couture Week,” says JJ Valaya.

Bursa had always been a fascination for historians, medieval explorers, and travelers, including the likes of the famed traveler, Ibn Battuta, who on his visit to Bursa in 1331, was impressed by the then Sultan as he enjoyed the “city with the fine bazaars and wide streets, surrounded on all sides by gardens and running springs“.

Researched inspirations for this year’s collection include the famed Ottoman silks, which were among the most characteristic and artistic products of the empire, besides the nomadic kilims of the period. Additionally, Ottoman miniatures, known as ‘Taswir’, which are painted to illustrate manuscripts or used in dedicated albums, and the art of ‘Tezhip’, (meaning ornamenting with gold), a non-figurative painted or drawn decorative art in books or on a sheet are eminently pervasive in this year’s collection. Also, part of the label’s discoveries this season are jewels of the Ottoman Empire, with the ‘Topkapi’ palace jewels, which are counted amongst the largest such treasuries in the Islamic world, holding the main treasures of the empire. Details of Turkish armor, especially the quills used then, as well as a medley of Turkish flora, fauna, and fruits such as pomegranates further enrich this year’s collection.

The collection holistically reflects the usage of burnished metallics and golds to give an antique aesthetic to the garments, a distinguished signature of brand. Delicate and intricate craftsmanship remains a Valaya essential and with Swarovski crystals, silk threads, beads, pearls, and age-old Zardozi sewed into the gentle folds of fine silks and velvets, there is something extremely special about this collection that gives a nostalgic yet royal resonance.

The couture show, whilst narrating the Ottoman Saga through a showcase of 48 pieces for men and women, will also be unique in another way as the entire showcase shall revolve around the 3 key silhouettes of Indian weddings and celebrations: The Lehenga, The Sherwani, and The Sari along with the label’s latest addition: the IKA jacket, which is a younger sibling to ‘Alika’, one of the labels’ cult and iconic jacket, which people can configure for themselves on screen, signifying a decadent feast and emotional high for onlookers and patrons. The couturier plans to showcase his summer interpretation of Bursa early next year.

The Jewelry Partner for this year’s couture collection is Archana Aggarwal from Timeless Jewels. Since two decades, Archana has been crafting luxury jewellery with refined sophistication and this association with Master Couturier JJ Valaya gives her traditional Indian jewellery a unique expression.

Bursa very beautifully amalgamates Valaya’s vision and Archana’s finesse in fine jewellery. Within this inspired collection, Archana Aggarwal has worked meticulously on an assortment of necklaces, earrings, bracelets, rings and hair and hand accessories, to complement the collection.

 “It is my immense pleasure to showcase this special jewellery line for the JJ Valaya Couture Collection and I wish him all the best for this show”, says Archana Aggarwal.

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